Oreteti Discovery Cultural Tourism Program at Eluwai Village

This is another opportunity to live with the Maasai. Oreteti founders Gemma and her Maasai husband Leskar Enolengila, invite guests to Eluwai village in Monduli district where Leskar was born. Eluwai has an unsurpassed location overlooking the rift valley. I made a mental note to return in the clearest months of the year beginning in October to enjoy the panorama again. Mounts Oldeani, Ngorongoro, Empakai, Kerimas, Gelai and Lengai are visible from Eluwai, as is Engaruka's seasonal lake on the rift valley floor. There is a higher view point to walk to from Eluwai which allows you the chance to see Mounts Kilimanjaro and Meru, even Mt Kenya, if you are very lucky.

The way to get the most out of an Eluwai visit is to include it on a longer safari. Because of its location in Monduli district, just outside of Arusha, this is easy to do. The road north from Eluwai has been much improved I hear since my last explorations of the area so it might be a great adventure to head north to Engaruka and Natron from Eluwai instead of driving to Mtu wa Mbu village first and taking the better known track north from there. Adventurers out there, let me know if you are keen and I am only too happy to go with you. We could time our trip to catch all the once weekly Maasai markets. Even if you make Eluwai your only stop, remember that Saturday is market day in Monduli Juu, the nearest town to Eluwai village. You will catch some opposition if you take photos, but the market is well worth visiting if you don't mind carrying its memory in your head instead of on a flash card. Purchase a cold soda from the bar and watch the pool games on the outdoor tables. This kind of market is a good place to buy the pastoralist sandals the Maasai wear made from motorcycle sandals.

Gemma has built a round guest hut, which sleeps four in a pinch. Two is a better fit. The cook who accompanies you prepares meals in the same hut. You get a lot of visitors here as well, such as Leskar's father (delightful, handsome Maasai mzee with a taste for popcorn) and the young warriors after they return with the herds at the end of the day. For that reason, until Gemma can provide more guest huts, which is her plan, I would suggest that you tent on the compound. It is cooler and you have more privacy. There is a basic drop toilet.

Eluwai activities include hikes to the higher view point of the rift valley and to several orpul, temporary camps where Maasai men, typically warriors, congregate for purifying and energy rebuilding ceremonies. I learned at Eluwai that Maasai women too have their own versions of orpul, after the birth of a child for instance. Leskar's father, a traditional healer, will accompany you on your hike and lecture on the plants and trees that the Maasai use medicinally. You can learn how to bead at a Maasai women's cooperative a few minutes walk down the hill from the village. When the animals return to the homestead at dusk you can help the Maasai women milk the cows and goats. (Use caution around ornery Maasai cows.) Then there is that view to enjoy. On your last night in Eluwai, the young warriors and girls dance, a very evocative performance by kerosene lantern. The young men so enjoy their competition of who can jump higher and impress all the women that I got the feeling that they could dance and sing all night. Leskar's brother was the undeniable jumping champion.

See more about Oreteti's programs under Cultural Safari under Tour Info.

05-10-2007