Sections:
Life in the Republic of Congo Resumed
The year’s end finds me in the Republic of Congo again after a five week visit to Vancouver where I met with clients for next year’s safaris, gave workshops on Tanzania and took care of house and dogs, both of which always need my attention. I am happy to resume life in Brazzaville , however briefly. I head to Tanzania in early January.
 My street in Television Village |
Brazzaville airport’s arrival lounge is alarming, even for experienced travelers like me. It consists of one small room with a worn baggage retrieval belt, inconveniently placed. A weary and sweating crowd jostles around it so they can grab their bags, all tamper proofed in heavy shrink wrapping and of mysterious shapes and sizes under the layers of plastic. (On this flight, a Congolese passenger carried on board a four-foot high doll with incongruous peroxide-blond hair.) To compound the chaos in arrivals, the crowd includes more porters, handlers, taxi drivers, and waiting family and friends than it does arriving passengers. I have a dear fellow called Richard who helps retrieve my bags. He works for a company which facilitates entry to the ROC. This time I had trouble recognizing him in his baseball cap among all the other men in similar caps, but I finally located him and gave him a wave. I felt pretty smug when I was the first into the arrivals after passing immigration. The official looked at my down parka, carried at this point over my arm in the 34 degree heat, and asked if I was coming from the North Pole. No, but you are close, I thought of telling him: I had spent a few days in a snowy Eastern Canada prior to my Brazzaville flight. I found a corner to wait while Richard pushed and shoved his way into the scrum around the baggage claim. Ten minutes passed and then thirty. My satisfaction died away to be replaced with the meditative state I call the zone. All good travelers cultivate and call upon this state. Trust, patience, and acceptance are its primary components; trust, patience and acceptance that there is a system at work—even if you are hard pressed to recognize any—out of which will come resolution. At least John was allowed to join me in my long wait for my bags—two and ½ hours in total. Finally we were ready to go home. Outside, I breathed in the warm night air of the tropics. I look forward to this when I have been away from Africa . It is the rainy season now. Brazzaville smelled of hot, wet, decaying mother earth. We don’t live far from the airport. Depending upon wind direction the airplanes come right over the house allowing you to recognize the airline company. All along the road leading to the airport children sit on short stools at night and do their homework by candlelight or in the pools of light thrown by dim and skewed street lights. I looked for the children on the way home. It’s an image that I carry of the Congo . No where else in Africa have I encountered such desire and determination to learn.
 John with kids |
 We allowed the neighbor’s children to take their own photos and this arty shot of little Regina was one result |
06-01-2008
An Update on a Republic of Congo Gorilla Safari
Join me for a thirteen day safari to Nouabale-Ndoki National Park in the Republic of Congo and Dzangha-Sangha National Park in the Central African Repubic. National Geographic photographer Michael Nicholls calls Nouabale-Ndoki “the last place on earth.”
I have room for four people. These parks accept only a limited number of visitors at a time.
This is not an easy safari. You must be physically fit and able to accept the likelihood of the unexpected happening.
When: we depart Brazzaville Oct 20, 2008 and return Nov. 1, 2008.
Overview of our destination: The tri-national parks of the Central African basin include Dzanga-Ndoki National Park in the Central Africa Republic; Nouabale-Ndoki National Park in the Republic of Congo; and Lobeke National Park in Cameroon. These parks must be considered as among the most beautiful, accessible rainforests in Africa, and the last of their kind on the planet. We are visiting two out of three of these parks.
Dzanga-Ndoki National Park is the ancestral home of Ba’Aka pygmies who have helped establish its current tourism program. The park shelters diverse wildlife such as forest elephants, lowland gorillas, buffaloes, sitatunga and bongo antelopes, warthogs, numerous monkey species, leopards and a long list of endemic birds, which can be viewed from platform hides built above natural mineral clearings in the forests called baïs or salines. Nowhere else in Central Africa do you have such a high probability of seeing all this wildlife in one place.
Nouabale-Ndoki National Park offers similar attractions to DSNP but with one important distinction: its forests are pristine. They have never been logged. They are surrounded by swamps which make it difficult for poachers to access the forest for its trees and for the wildlife it protects.
The principal activity of NNNP is wildlife observation at Mbeli Bai. The lowland gorillas feed on a fruit here unique to this forest clearing. Mbeli Bai is also known for its sightings of forest elephants, sitatunga antelope, buffalo, red river hogs, otters, and crocodiles. Recently opened Mondika Camp is the best place to track a family of 12 habituated lowland gorillas.
Cost: I can only provide an estimated price of between $6000.00 and $6200.00 US. It depends on our final number of participants.
Visa requirements: Double entry visa for Republic of Congo and simple entry visa for Central Africa Republic.
Vaccinations: All recommended vaccinations for international travel to developing countries, including Yellow Fever. Your health certificate will be checked upon arrival in Brazzaville.
What safari includes:
Internal air ticket ( Brazzaville – Ouesso – Brazzaville )
Ground transportation and transfers
Boat rides (Ouesso – Bomassa – Bayanga – Bomassa – Ouesso)
Shared accommodation - Full board
One gorilla tracking permit per participant per national park.
One mangabey tracking permit (DNNP)
Two Bai walk (DNNP)
Net hunting with Ba’Aka (DNNP)
What safari excludes:
International flights
Visas
Tips
Drinks
Laundry services
Items of a personal nature
Extra gorilla permits (payable on the spot dependent upon availability).
Accommodation in Brazzaville to be decided upon when our final numbers are clear.
Fall 2008 Congo Gorilla Safari Itinerary:
Day One: We depart Brazzaville ROC on Mistral Air for Ouesso, a two hour flight. Arriving mid-morning, we depart for Bomassa, park headquarters for Nouabale-Ndoki National Park , by pirogue up the Sangha River , a journey of up to five hours. Tonight we overnight at the Wildlife Conservation Society’s (WCS) Bomassa guesthouse.
Day Two: Bomassa is also the jumping off point for visits to Dzangha-Ndoki National Park in the Central African Republic . We are visiting DNNP first. After breakfast, we travel once again by pirogue to the CAR and ROC border at Lidjombo. After official formalities we transfer to 4 x 4 vehicles which bring us the remaining distance to Bayanga, park headquarters. For the next five nights we remain at Bayanga’s comfortable Doli Lodge overlooking the river. Next to the Doli Lodge is an interesting information centre on the park’s conservation projects.
Days Three, Four, Five and Six: Throughout the next 4 days it may be necessary to split up our group in order to undertake the different activities as follows:
Bai Hokou Research Camp – from here we track the only habituated lowland gorillas from their sleeping point the previous night. This is currently the largest number of lowland habituated gorillas (16) in Central Africa . Very few people have had the opportunity to be with them.
Dzangha Bai – this is a natural forest clearing where a variety of forest animals come to feed on the rich mineral salts found in the soil. Observing from a tree-line hide we hope to see forest elephant (there is daily average of 40-120 sighted in the Bai), bongos (the largest and heaviest forest antelope), sitatunga (swamp-dwelling antelope), red river hog and many bird species. This is a wonderful wildlife experience in the second largest rainforest in the world.
Ba’Aka Folk – we have the opportunity to mingle with the local pygmy tribe and to take part in their traditional net hunting in the forest. We will learn about their life in the forest, such as the medicinal plant gathering by Ba’Aka women.
Day Seven: We return to Bomassa by retracing our steps of Day Two. There should be time in the afternoon to walk to an interesting bai near park headquarters. We overnight at the Bomassa WCS Guesthouse.
Day Eight: We hike to Mondika Camp which involves a three hour trek through the forest. One area of this forest is flooded which requires a thirty minute immersion in hip-high water. In Mondika Camp’s vicinity are a family of habituated lowland gorillas. The camp has only recently opened to visitors and takes only four people at a time. We remain here for two nights. Mondika Camp consists of tents under thatch shelters. Long drop toilet and showers are outside.
Day Nine: Mondika Camp. We trek to see habituated lowland gorillas.
Day Ten: We return to Bomassa headquarters by retracing our steps through the flooded forest of Day Nine. From Bomassa we take a short drive to another river where we set off by pirogue to Mbeli Camp, which takes about an hour. Within a forty minute walk of camp is Mbeli Bai, an extensive forest clearing several hundred meters in length, where wildlife such as elephant, gorillas, buffalo and antelope come to feed. They can be observed from a hide located in the tree-line. We overnight at Mbeli Camp, which consists of four bungalows on stilts. There is no electricity. Showers and long drop toilets are outside.
Day Eleven: We remain at Mbeli Camp.
Day Twelve: We return to Bomassa by pirogue and vehicle and overnight at the WCS Guesthouse.
Day Thirteen: It’s a 5:30 am departure for Ouesso by pirogue in order to catch Mistral Air’s 10:30 am departure for Brazzaville.
Brazzaville airport’s arrival lounge is alarming, even for experienced travelers like me. It consists of one small room with a worn baggage retrieval belt, inconveniently placed. A weary and sweating crowd jostles around it so they can grab their bags, all tamper proofed in heavy shrink wrapping and of mysterious shapes and sizes under the layers of plastic. (On this flight, a Congolese passenger carried on board a four-foot high doll with incongruous peroxide-blond hair.) To compound the chaos in arrivals, the crowd includes more porters, handlers, taxi drivers, and waiting family and friends than it does arriving passengers. I have a dear fellow called Richard who helps retrieve my bags. He works for a company which facilitates entry to the ROC. This time I had trouble recognizing him in his baseball cap among all the other men in similar caps, but I finally located him and gave him a wave. I felt pretty smug when I was the first into the arrivals after passing immigration. The official looked at my down parka, carried at this point over my arm in the 34 degree heat, and asked if I was coming from the North Pole. No, but you are close, I thought of telling him: I had spent a few days in a snowy Eastern Canada prior to my Brazzaville flight. I found a corner to wait while Richard pushed and shoved his way into the scrum around the baggage claim. Ten minutes passed and then thirty. My satisfaction died away to be replaced with the meditative state I call the zone. All good travelers cultivate and call upon this state. Trust, patience, and acceptance are its primary components; trust, patience and acceptance that there is a system at work—even if you are hard pressed to recognize any—out of which will come resolution. At least John was allowed to join me in my long wait for my bags—two and ½ hours in total. Finally we were ready to go home. Outside, I breathed in the warm night air of the tropics. I look forward to this when I have been away from Africa . It is the rainy season now. Brazzaville smelled of hot, wet, decaying mother earth. We don’t live far from the airport. Depending upon wind direction the airplanes come right over the house allowing you to recognize the airline company. All along the road leading to the airport children sit on short stools at night and do their homework by candlelight or in the pools of light thrown by dim and skewed street lights. I looked for the children on the way home. It’s an image that I carry of the Congo . No where else in Africa have I encountered such desire and determination to learn.
 Adult Lowland Gorilla Male |
 This gorilla baby is in the Lefini Gorilla Sanctuary of Brazzaville. |
 Republic of Congo Forest |
06-01-2008
Tanzania - January through March 2008
On January 4, 2008 I fly to Tanzania via Addis Ababa where I remain for three months. I will lead five safaris, all of which focus on the wildebeest migration and foaling season and which take in some of my favorite scenery and destinations in Northern Tanzania—Lake Natron, the Gol Mountains, and Ndutu.
 Three Cheetah Brothers in Gol Kopjes, Serengeti National Park |
I must also use my time in Tanzania to set up safari requests for next year’s dry season and even migration and foaling safaris for early 2009. Things are always changing in Tanzania which means I need to keep my ear low to the ground. The best way to do this is to be in Tanzania as much as possible. In what time I have between guests’ arrivals and departures, I plan on doing my usual snooping such as an exploratory two-day hike along the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater. I had wanted to make it three days but the authorities are at the moment telling me I must complete it in two. I love this kind of safari because the virgin turf that I admit to attracts other adventurers. I have three guests joining me for this particular hike. Furthermore, I get to spend treasured time with my trusted guide and cook, Shabaan. It may be my last hike with Shabaan for he is taking on the exalted position in Tanzania of driver/guide. He has spent months in training. I’ve lost a few cooks and guides to the driving profession. It is only fair to be happy for their promotion and yet, when it happens, I miss the relationship I had with them as cooks. I don’t consider cooks subordinate to drivers. They work very hard. They are the last to bed and the first to rise.
On of my favorite memories of Shabaan is his leopard story which he told around the glowing embers of his cooking fire. He hadn’t been working as crew for very long when he found himself on a camping safari. Everyone had gone to bed when Shabaan thought he saw a leopard at the entrance to his tent. He woke the camp with his shouts. No leopard was found but Shabaan decided to sleep in a vehicle. He woke a short time later to see what he was convinced was a leopard. The cat had followed him into the car! He woke the camp with his shouts. But again no leopard was found. The other crew told him, “Please Shabaan, get some sleep, you are imagining things.” So he barricaded himself into the back seat with the ice chests and there he passed a miserable, sleepless night. The next morning they broke camp. They hadn’t driven very far when the guests cried out from the back seat “Leopard! Leopard!” The driver screeched to a halt and everyone piled out of the car panicked. There was indeed a “cat” in the car, a genet, a relative of the mongoose, with a long striped tail.
 Genet cat at Ndutu Safari Lodge (photo courtesy Teri Gaff - Dec '06 guest) |
Watch for my trip reports on January through March safaris in the April newsletter.
06-01-2008
Harvest Moons
The only thing better than safari nights under a full moon is safari nights in a private camp site under a full moon. The only thing better than safari nights in a private campsite under a full moon is safari nights in a private campsite under the Harvest Moon. You can’t forget a Harvest Moon. It stops you in your tracks. It is enormous, brighter than other moons and color of red lacquer when it rises, all of which are illusions of course. Any object low in the sky appears larger, even star constellations. As for its red color, you look through a greater amount of atmosphere when a moon rides low in the sky, a lesser amount if it’s high in the sky. Atmosphere scatters bluish light but not reddish light which we then see as a kind of filter over the moon.
All full moons rise around sunset, but the general rule is that each moon rises fifty minutes later than the one preceding it because of the moon’s orbit around the earth. The Harvest Moon is special because the time difference between moonrise on consecutive nights is shorter. The lack of darkness between sunset and moonrise was considered an aid to farmers who worked late to bring in their crops. It is from this that the Harvest Moon gets its name.
The Harvest Moon is the full moon closest to the autumnal equinox, which occurs in the Northern Hemisphere in mid to late September. I caught the Harvest Moon in the Northern Hemisphere this year in Canada , on one of Vancouver ’s rare clear nights. In the Southern Hemisphere—which includes sub Saharan Africa—the autumnal equinox falls in March. I have the memory of a Harvest Moon past. I was in the Selous Game Reserve. When the moon appeared on the horizon, it burned red like a fire. This March I hope to admire the Harvest Moon from my private campsite in Tanzania ’s north, surrounded perhaps, if I am very fortunate, by herds of wildebeest and zebra.
06-01-2008
Arusha's Sunday Maasai Cattle Market
Patience and Jordan Lister is an adventurous young couple for whom I arranged a safari in October. They opted for the expense of their own vehicle but kept costs manageable by camping throughout (which is easier to do when you are in your late twenties) and only splurging at the end on a comfortable tented camp. They asked for lots of hiking which I thought I had included—Olmoti and Empakai craters; Mts Lengai (if it hadn’t erupted) and Makarot. I laughed to hear from them when they returned home that they still thought they did too much car time.
They had a few days off in Arusha which fell over the weekend, and decided to take in the Sunday Maasai cattle market at Ngaramtoni. This is good activity for independent travelers with a similar free Sunday in town. Here is Patience’s market report. They hired a taxi in town to take them there.
“Fifteen to twenty minutes out of town, we came to a huge field in a farming area. For the next two to three hours Maasai arrived with herds of cattle, sheep and goats to sell. By the time we left there must have been 200 people there. The auction was more like a big networking event. The Maasai wandered through the crowd, chatted with each other, and occasionally exchanged money for animals. We took photos and then sat in the shade to watch everyone. Many curious Maasai joined us who asked a lot of questions, such as “What kind of cows do you have in Canada ?” How many cows do you own?” And for Jordan who is very tall, “you are tall and yet you look so young?”
We enjoyed this because we were the only foreigners at the market and it gave us a chance to observe, meet and learn about the Maasai people outside of the tourist setting.”
The Maasai of Longido town, which lies an hour’s drive north of Arusha in the direction of the Kenyan border, holds its cattle market on Wednesdays. Longido makes for a worthwhile day’s outing too. A word of advice on cattle markets. Your travels elsewhere might encourage the idea that the best time to visit is early morning. Not so with Maasai cattle markets. The Maasai drive their animals to market from long distances away beginning only when it is day light. They may not arrive until midday.
06-01-2008
NICE Safaris
(Nature and Inter-Cultural Expeditions Safaris)
Johnson Ole Kaunga, a Laikipia Maasai, runs NICE Safaris in Kenya , which specializes in eco-travels among Kenya ’s Maasai and Samburu communities. NICE informs its clients about the potential negative effects of their travel in Kenya and encourages them to make responsible travel choices. On a NICE safari this is achieved by:
- - the use of indigenous Maasai and Samburu managed wildlife sanctuaries.
- - the use of locally owned and operated accommodations, which includes Maasai manyattas. NICE avoids internationally owned hotels because it wants the money generated by visitors to benefit local people directly. Doing this also removes the need for scarce resources to be diverted to provide special tourist facilities.
- - the use of locally produced food.
- - the employment of local people wherever possible. This allows clients more opportunities to mix with local people, and the Maasai in particular. This again puts money directly into local hands, which addresses poverty at the community level.
- - the use of local transport when possible. Not only is this fun and adds variety to a safari, it also provides more chances to met locals and channel money into the right hands.
- - taking measures to protect the natural environment while on safari by reducing waste such as plastic water bottles.
- - providing clients with information about local religions and customs, history and politics.
Ten percent of NICE’s profits is used to support indigenous community-based projects.
A list with a difference: What Johnson suggests we do before and after going on safari in Kenya.
- - Find out about our destination. Buy relevant guidebooks and learn about the culture, politics, geography, religion and customs of Kenya . This knowledge will be reinforced by our NICE Maasai guide.
- - Arrive equipped with some basic words and phrases in Maa or Samburu. A few words (even just hello, please and thank you) will go a long way towards developing communication and understanding with local people.
- - Find out what constitutes appropriate behavior and learn about and respect the customs and beliefs.
- - Dress respectfully. It is very easy to offend local people by not covering up or dressing appropriately.
- - Purchase locally made goods and use locally provided services. Try to put money into the local economy by encouraging trade and the local manufacture of goods and crafts.
- - Pay a fair price for the goods and services you buy. Haggling is often a part of local life, but don’t go too far and keep a realistic perspective. What is a trifling sum to you could be a significant amount to a local family (perhaps worth something important to them, such as a meal).
- - Ask permission to photograph or video. How would you like it if a stranger came along and took photos of you going about your everyday life; hanging out the washing, going to the gym or walking the dog?
- - Avoid conspicuous displays of wealth, especially in very poor communities where you are a guest. Remove watches, rings and expensive jewelry.
- - Don’t make promises you can’t keep about sending pictures, gifts, etc.
- - Support local community or environmental projects.
- - When you return home think how you can support programs to help the country you’ve been privileged enough to visit.
- - Save the environment, carry out litter, take bio-degradable soap, burn toilet paper, don’t throw away plastic bags.
Johnson has invited me to Kenya to visit the Maasai and Samburu communities with which he works. Watch for more about NICE safaris in future newsletters. Meanwhile, Johnson and I will talk on the phone when I get to Arusha in January.
06-01-2008
Tips for Travel Preparation
by Beth Whitman of Wanderlust and Lipstick
I first introduced you to Beth in September’s newsletter. A new friend of mine, Beth Whitman is a self described travel addict with 20 years of globetrotting experience as both a backpacker and businesswoman.
She is the author of Wanderlust and Lipstick: The Essential Guide for Women Traveling Solo
Beth's travel blog is at The Seattle Post Intelligencer
( blog.seattlepi.nwsource.com/travel )
With these credentials, it isn’t surprising that Beth has some good advice about travel planning which she shares with us below. For some destinations in the world it is possible to get away without much planning in advance. I agree that serendipitously is a great way to go. And if you plan on travel through the African continent with unlimited time and sufficient funds, then all that planning and booking that Beth and I recommend isn’t absolutely necessary for you. However, the majority of us have finite time and money. If you dream about going on safari the earlier you start planning the better. It amazes a lot of people to realize how much work is involved getting your dream safari off the ground.
Beth’s Seven Tips for Trip Preparation
"I often hear from people that travel planning is extremely stressful due to all of the details involved and the potential for making a mistake (booking flights on the wrong dates, paying too much for a car rental, etc.). I, however, love planning my adventures and I believe that this enthusiasm can be learned.
"Whether you are planning an independent journey to Europe or booking a safari to Africa through a reputable tour company, it’s simply a matter of getting organized and knowing what steps are involved.
"As you consider booking your African safari, following these general tips will help relieve the stress and doubt that comes with trip preparation for any adventure allowing you to then really enjoy the process!"
- 1. Don’t wait until the last minute to book. Give yourself as much time as possible to get organized, physically and emotionally, and this will take a lot of stress out of the planning process.
- 2. Research tour companies. Get to know the unique offerings of several companies and ask for referrals from previous participants. Make sure that the safari program is a good fit for your needs and interests. While price comparison is important, remember that you get what you pay for and those that are offering cut-rate prices are cutting corners somewhere.
- 3. Once you’ve settled on a safari, learn as much about your destination as possible. In addition to reading guide books about the region, you’ll also want to read travel articles, memoirs and news articles written about the area. This will provide you with well-rounded knowledge and insight into the culture and country.
- 4. Begin learning some of the local language. Even though you’ll be with an organized tour with guides who’ll act as your translators, the locals will appreciate and respect the fact that you’ve learned at least a few key phrase words such as hello, please, thank you and excuse me.
- 5. Pay for large expenses on a credit card that gives you mileage through an airline’s reward program. Every bit helps towards a free flight for that next journey!
- 6. Make arrangements with a friend or family member to handle your bills and household issues (i.e. feeding your cat and watering your plants) while you’re away.
- 7. At least a week prior to your departure, let the packing begin. Start putting items aside that you plan to carry along with you. Pack light and use compression bags or packing cubes to save space and organize like-items together.
"Above all else, relax, enjoy the process and expect the unexpected! Know that not everything will go smoothly and build in some emotional flexibility so that you can go with the flow.
"An African safari will truly be an adventure that will provide you with stories and memories that will last a lifetime."
06-01-2008
Music Reviews
| Youssou N’dour: Rokku Mi Rokka (“Give and Take”): I saw N’Dour perform in the 80s in Oakland, California where he was part of the Amnesty International Concert Tour. This is long before I knew my destiny would take me to Africa . I have followed this famous Senegalese musician ever since. This is his latest effort. |  |
| Habib Koite and Bamada: Afriki: Koite is Mali ’s premier guitarist and Bamada is his group. This is his first album in six years. Its gentle, laidback songs remind me of Geoffrey Oreyema’s music. |  |
| Congolese Soukous compiled by the Rough Guide to World Music: What are soukous you might ask? Well, it’s Congolese rumba, guitar-driven dance music, with its roots in the 1950s Democratic Republic of Congo when Portuguese visitors introduced the guitar to local musicians who quickly traded in their thumb pianos for the new instrument. I can now vouch for the Congolese love of dancing and singing. I have only to sit outside my house after sunset and all the music venues happening around the neighborhood are carried to me through the still night. |  |
06-01-2008
Book Review - Dancing with the Witchdoctor
Dancing with the Witchdoctor by Kelly James: I have this book to blame for a sleepless night. I bought it at the Novel Bookstore, took it back to my room at the Swiss Garden Hotel, and stayed up until dawn because I couldn’t, for the life of me, put it down. A private detective from San Francisco , James travels the world investigating as she puts it “safari, ship, and plane accidents as well as murders and thefts and I search for missing persons.” Dancing with the Witchdoctor recounts four missions in Africa for which she was hired. They take her to a coffee plantation in Kenya ; to Rwanda and on an unauthorized mountain gorilla trek during the ethnic wars; into war torn Mozambique ; and to Turkanaland in Kenya ’s far north where she really risked death by starvation, thirst, unfriendly tribes—actually, she faced dying from all three. I found myself incredulous as I read through the night. How were these stories possible? In the end, however, the idea that truth is often stranger than fiction won me over. If you fancy yourself as an accomplished adventurer, read Kelly James. Your adventures probably pale in comparison. I was going to say that she has balls, but why liken her courage (or stupidity?) to a man’s. We are a strong sex. Suffice it to say that Kelly James is someone who likes to live on the edge.
In the last newsletter I recommended Dar es Salaam ’s Novel Bookstore to load up on books on African subjects. This is another great resource: www.africabookcentre.com, suppliers of books from and about Africa . Resources include books on African languages, art, cooking, and children’s books. ABC is currently mail order only: their storefront in London ’s Covent Gardens is closed for a three year “redevelopment.”
06-01-2008
Tidbits 3
I like this so much that I’ve decided to make this my mantra:
“Life is either a daring adventure, or nothing.”
Helen Keller
On camping:
“Often the camping place is the most memorable part of a day in the wild, and it sometimes seems that my life is defined by a long trail of abandoned campfires.”
Delia Owens
in Secrets of the Savanna.
On wildlife:
“The best thing about animals is that they don’t talk much.”
Thornton Wilder
On photography:
This makes me laugh each time I hear it:
“You miss 100 percent of the photographs that you don’t take.”
Finally:
This advice from National Geographic photographer and filmmaker, whose film on leopards I recently saw on TV. If there is an elephant offended by your proximity, photograph it from a low vantage point, looking up, so as to bring across the strength and size of this animal. I’ll try to remember this when I am next charged by an ellie!
 Leopard - Central Serengeti |
06-01-2008
